French trip
A plan was hastily put together to meet Julien in Toulouse close to his home town of Albi for a week of climbing. I had climbed in south France before, but that was at Easter and I had not been to the south west so I was looking forward to it. The advantage of our plan over our previous plan of camping at the Calanques was of a roof over our heads in case of foul weather. This was a good plan as the forecast was none to certain, it also meant that I could take advantage of a cheap flight taking in Milan - London - Toulouse.
As one expects of the south of France it was sunny upon arrival, so greeted by my companion we headed straight for the climbing, which today was to be at a small crag to the North of Albi. Approaching from Toulouse one drives the length of a craggy gorge until reaching Saint Antonin Noble Val. We stopped almost at the end of the gorge, a large cliff with many hard routes; we chose a few of the many easier routes with pleasant views along the gorge. It is also a heat trap, and even now in November it was hot and permitted climbing in shorts. Yes this was the south of France. The rock in these parts along the river Avevron is limestone, and very solid. The routes were vertical and well protected, and the crag deserted. It was a perfect warm up for the week ahead.
After a days cultural tour of Albi and its surrounding area Julien suggested we up root and head for the coast. This came somewhat as a surprise to me as I was quite comfortable where I was. This new plan involved camping, cold early nights, cooking huddled over a small gas stove and various other discomforts that in the summer months are better enjoyed. The decision to go was finally made upon discovering that Juliens parents were themselves leaving for Italy, therefore I would at the mercy of Juliens culinary skills all the same. So we were going, but not until one more night in a comfortable bed.
We headed south to an area better known for its medieval walled city of Carcassonne than for its climbing. The site of Notre Dame du Cros is in the Massif du Minersois close to Caunes. A fine small site with routes on slabby rock adequately protected. Unfortunately the weather was far from ideal and we climbed between showers. A campground was found close by in the village of Villegly, one of the few sites open all year round, and at this time of year occupied solely by English people looking for property.
The next day was grey but we remained optimistic. Our itinerary today was Trémenal just to the east of Olonzac. From the comfort of our car the location seemed idyllic. Open scrubland, interrupted by craggy limestone outcrops. Unfortunately it was also really really windy, and despite the sun was cold. Nevertheless donning gloves, hats and windproofs we arrived at the foot of the crag descending by means of a short abseil. Trémenal is a long escarpment of compact limestone of 15-20 metres in height. Our abseil followed a 7c route, so we proceeded swiftly to the easier sector that was also by good fortune just coming into sun. Despite the cold and a desperate moment when our car keys appeared to be all but lost the climbing was fantastic and again the crag deserted.
Hoping to find the best of the weather, the following 3 days were spent at Narbonne on the Mediterranean coast. We were to be rewarded for our cunning, as despite bad weather at night it was probably the only place dry during the day. It was constantly windy, but the crags we choose were well sheltered and it was possible to climb in comfort, sometimes in shorts, with fine views of the med. The area is known as La Clape, an unfortunate name in English but don't let it put you off. The limestone outcrops that make up the area are small, but well formed. There is enough here to occupy a good two to three days of climbing. We climbed at La Chandelle, Les Caunes and La Crouzade. Of course it is incredibly peaceful midweek at this time of year, and we managed to climb every day despite the ever-present threat of brooding clouds. We were in a little haven. Camping could be a problem here later in the year. We stayed at La Nautique, the only site we found open.
